CAP pâtisserie: Réussir la pâte à choux. La recette des éclairs chocolat .

How to make a perfect eclair au chocolat on the day of the C.A.P. pâtissier. I'm at a school in Caviniac where they give private classes on how to make the C.A.P. pâtissier. He's going to explain everything and give us the recipe. It's Cyril Saint-Nicolas. Let's go! Today we're going to make eclairs au chocolat with Cyril, who's in the process of making it. I'm going to let him do it to understand the organization of the C.A.P. pâtissier. Today's goal is to see how to make it simple and effective. I have baking techniques, Cyril has other baking techniques. We're going to film that. Let's go for the recipe. For the C.A.P. pâte à choux, you have to go fast. I make pâte à choux with a little bit of salt. So 2.5 grams of salt for 5 grams of sugar, 115 grams of butter and 150 grams of flour with 125 grams of water and 125 grams of milk. I make half milk, half water. I never change my recipe even if it's religious or eclairs. I always work with dry butter. It's much better. I make with dry butter. I cut it quickly into small pieces. Even if I lose time I'll save time on the gas. Once I weigh my dry ingredients, salt, sugar, butter, I weigh my liquids. The main thing of the C.A.P. is to go fast. It's to do well, to master, to go fast and especially to go straight to the goal. It's useless to have 50 containers. At the C.A.P. it's useless to do nothing. If you want to save time, the pâte à choux test is the most important test because it's 4 hours long. It's the shortest and the most intense on the products to make. If it can go fast, it's better. I put 125 grams of water. Go slowly when you weigh. There is a moment when you have to go fast but there is a moment when you have to be super vigilant. It's useless to have big scales for the C.A.P. Take small scales that don't take up space as usual. I put 150 grams of flour. I make a pâte à choux that is more or less dry. I'm talking about a pâte à choux general C.A.P. It's a pâte à choux that will be good for rouladeuse, eclair, choux assento. Flour is very important at the C.A.P. even if you don't have time. I repeat it 56 times. It allows you to filigree well. Your mixture will be made faster and it will allow the flour to burst faster in the panade. If you don't do it, it will be the beginning of the disaster. I rarely weigh the eggs. On a pâte à choux base, on a quarter of a liter, we are between 200 grams and 250 grams of eggs. Today I weigh them. 200 grams of eggs. If I need a little more, I would put a little more. On such a small amount, we don't need to go up to 250 grams of eggs per quarter of a liter. It's often the trap that they do at the C.A.P. What I can advise you, don't weigh all the eggs in the same container. Or you start with 200 grams so you are sure not to put all the eggs. Because sometimes, with the precipitation, the pressure, we go fast and the dough is dead. You have to start again because it's too liquid. I advise you to do it twice. At the beginning, 200 grams, as I just did. And then you put the remaining 50 grams just to adjust the pâte à choux. I remind you that the pâte à choux is very meticulously adjusted. And I will even show you a tip to the mixer to mix it extremely well. Because often, small quantities do not mix very well with the mixer. And we still need to wait for a complete mixture. So that we don't confuse the precipitated mixture with a good homogeneous mixture. So pâte à choux. So there, direct on my plate, I heat up. So be careful because the induction plate goes extremely fast. Always prepare a pastry bag next to it, a small spatula, the eggs, the flour that is ready. In fact, when you start to start, it must be weighed. So here we come back to the panade. The panade, what is super important, is not to boil for 3 hours, especially not at this stage. Especially with small quantities, it goes very fast. So there, I remove all the time from the fire. I read it again, too often, the flour is put out of the fire. If you want to mix it well, if you want to make your panade homogeneous, quickly, without lumps, it's out of the fire. We don't need to get angry at this stage. Easy, no stress. It's because you go faster that you won't make lumps. So I prefer to go slowly, not to put flour everywhere. I like it when I work, when it's clean. And there, I put it straight back on the gas. I make a drying. We're going to dry, but we're drying a quarter of a liter of choux pastry. It's very little. So don't make a big drying. I'll show you a little hint. And as soon as you have the film that starts to hang slightly on the bottom, you stop. Then it's straight to the mixer. And I turn it on right away. It's very important. We have a very small amount of choux pastry, so don't go too fast. It's very important to dry the choux pastry a little bit and at the same time to temper it. Why do we temper? Because we have a pre-coagulation that could happen with the eggs from 61-62°C. To avoid that, we go below. Below 50°C, I'm about 53-54°C, for me it's a good temperature to put the eggs. I'm not very conventional. I put the eggs continuously at the same speed. I go about one at a time. At the beginning, I put 200 grams of eggs for a quarter of a liter. I'm going to put about three quarters of this amount. And now I'm going to make a complete mixture to really mix all the dry materials with the eggs. I accelerate it and I mix it well. You know, you have priorities. In fact, the mixture of the choux pastry, the setting is the priority to have a nice choux pastry. I still have my eggs. You see, we already have a dough that is a little more homogeneous. So now we're going to make splinters. We need a choux pastry that's not too hard. The first clue is that. It's when I turn on the mixer and I turn it off at once. You see, the dough tightens on itself. Well, depending on the tension and the time it will take to fall back, for me, it's still a little clue. So now I see that I'm not good. Here's your clue with the egg. And you see, I put 200 grams of eggs. So here, as in a bakery, the recipes with flour always have to adapt to the flour because it will drink more or less in quantity. So here, it's a bit like baking in a bakery. So be careful, a little less, better than too much. And you look at your first setting. So you take the maximum mass and you look at this fall. We must have what we call a perroquet beak. And there, in fact, we have a dough that is homogeneous, that is shiny. We have our perroquet beak. We are good. In fact, we have all the clues that are good. And you see, I have that left as on the 200 grams that I weighed from the start. So that means, in fact, that we don't necessarily need all the quantity of eggs. From there, I put it directly in the pocket. That's mandatory. We don't let a dough hang around. It's going to crust and it's going to spoil you. Frankly, the little shot of the laser thermometer, this one, there are some who will say thank you again. So there, I put it in the pocket. Even if it's hot, I put it in the pocket right away. The advantage is to put everything in the pocket. Everything well cornered, in fact, in it. Already one, it's that you tell your jury, in fact, who looks at you, I know that we put a dish. And two, it's the desire, look, to protect the perroquet beak. I put it in the pocket. The advantage is that the perroquet beak will no longer crust. Now we prepare the plate. In the pocket, in the oven. So what interested me especially in this approach is that Cyril, if he has a small school like that, and all the links you can find them under the video, he accompanies free candidates, professionals in France and abroad in the world. This is his little foot on the ground on the side of Bordeaux. Do not hesitate, you send him a message. But it's a bit the same philosophy, the fact that for the CAP, you have to be simple, and he also welcomes free candidates. They do small training, white CAP, just a little set up, cold and a little bit of equipment. All that, nickel. So, I choose you on greased plates. Everyone does a little bit what they want, but you either have greased plates, either on a baking sheet, or even on a flexible sheet. So what I call flexible sheets, it's sheets that are perforated. It's more and more widespread. It's good because it lets the air pass. The problem with flexible sheets, it's that the micro holes, when you make a choux pastry, like for the CAP, I still do it not too hard. It tends to go a little bit too much in the holes, and when you tear it, there may be a film that remains attached. And that's not great for the CAP, because if you have a big hole in the back, you're going to get into it, it's not very serious. So that's why I really opt for greasing. Greasing, then again, you have to grease, but not too much. If you grease too much, you're going to get in the way. And that's butter? That's a butter that I make myself. It's a butter based on beeswax, clarified butter, oil, and a little bit of lemon. I let it cool, I emulsify, and then I put it in a jar, and I sell it on the store. It's an online store called Labo San Nicolas. So you see, it's greased, but I don't wipe it. I'm spreading it out, I'm caressing my plate. What's super important is to waste time on these little details, because if it's badly greased, it's going to stick. If it's too greasy, you're not going to be able to hang the leg on the plate. And so it's going to slip, and then you're wasting a lot of time. And you have to have this shine all over. These are little details that won't take you more time, but at least you'll leave super well. For the CAP, I always have a lot of little sizes. For example, I have a little cardboard that measures between 12 and 13 centimeters. You dip it a little bit in the flour, and you make little marks. It's going to give you the clue to be able to trace. So be careful, don't get stuck on it. But it gives you a placement. So when you're not used to poaching, it's still not bad to do it like this. Then for the religious, you take any piece. The body is 5 centimeters in diameter, and the head is 3 centimeters in diameter. The body is well flattened to slightly exceed it, and the head very small within 3 centimeters to be able to poach it. You see, it's a choux pastry that's not very hard. I don't work hard. It's just the socket you took. What socket? It's super important. If you have too much strength in the wrist, a PF, what is it? It's micro-teeth. This is what will prevent you from getting a fork on the square. Those sockets are great for that. But if you don't have too much strength in the wrist, take a PF 16. It really depends on the person. Then I am my guide. You go slowly. I stop pressing, I put my socket against the plate, I put my socket against the plate, I pull a little bit, and I simply lift it up. And I do like that. At CAP, you have to go slowly. When you do this step, you are asked for precision, you are especially asked to be regular. You don't have to go fast. You see? I teach my students to do this gesture all the time. The most important thing is to make a nice, regular pocketing. So, the cooking of the eclairs. We already talked about the temperature of the oven. For me, the oven, on a ventilated oven, I will turn at about 170 to 175 degrees. So, ventilated oven, the ventilation, it turns all the time. And then, the timing, especially open oven. I really start with the open oven from the start until the end. There is really only at the end where I can cut it to dry. Then, at the timing level, on an oven like this one, it takes 20 minutes of cooking. Before, we used to put a lot of butter. Was it the solution or not? Honestly, I don't think so. You have a solution. In any case, this is the one I do and the one I teach my students. It's icing sugar. In the icing sugar, you have a little bit of starch. And this starch will help you contain your eclair. So, it's not a cracker, be careful. But it still stabilizes it quite a bit in the oven. In any case, it's a good tip. However, you have to do it only just before putting it in the oven. Otherwise, you're going to make syrup on your eclair. And you're going to make a lot of mistakes. And it's this one that's going to help you stabilize it. And that's enough. It doesn't bother me. And now, for 20 minutes. During this time, 20 minutes, what do you do? Do you have other preparations? Pastry cream. So now, I'm going to show you how to make a good pastry cream. Without a microwave? There are people who do it without a microwave, but no. How to shock a pastry chef? Pastry cream in the microwave, that's the basis in the bakery. It's often a pastry cream, you have to do it in the microwave. No, not at all. I'm going to show you how to make a pastry cream. A little bit, yeah. Let's go. So now, I'm going to make half a liter of pastry cream. In the C.A.P., half a liter of pastry cream, it's going to be about 12 eclairs. Often, for subjects, 16 eclairs. Because it's either 16 eclairs, or 18, or 12. You'll never have less. So, the half a liter, on the recipe, already mark your recipes, well calculated. The half a liter, you will necessarily have it. OK. So that's good. For the choux pastry, it's the same. It will always be a quarter of a liter. So, C.A.P. pastry chef, you have to weigh it. Mark the recipe right away, at the right weight. It will actually save you time to calculate your recipe on a daily basis. I only put whole milk. Never half-creamed. Anyway, here, I don't have half-creamed milk. So, I put 500 grams of whole milk. I'm going to put the sugar. So, here, we're going to put 125 grams. On these 125 grams, I put half in the milk, which is extremely important. So, here, I put 62 grams in the milk. And I will also put 62 grams in my yolks. It will actually prevent you from burning the milk. The milk, you have a fatty substance, which burns very, very, very easily. And the fact of putting sugar and mixing it, because you also have to mix it anyway, will actually prevent you from burning. So, here, I put vanilla. Anyway, for the C.A.P., I actually give them vanilla. I find it nicer to work with. So, this is vanilla caviar. It's just crushed vanilla pod. It actually avoids wasting time with a vanilla pod. And then, I'm going to heat this up. What is super, super important is to heat the milk, but not at high temperature. You have to heat it up, but at low temperature. Why? Because, one, we have sugar in the milk, which will mix with it. So, it will actually prevent us from burning And two, we have vanilla. The more we go slowly, the more we infuse, the more we create aroma. So, then, I'm going to clarify. When you go get eggs, at the C.A.P., you have a post that is designed for this purpose. And you're going to clarify or break the eggs only at this post. That is to say, you're going to go there with two containers, one to get the white, the other to get the yolks. Then, you'll put your yolks on your worktop and the rest, you're going to disinfect your worktop. That's super important. On this recipe, I put six egg yolks for half a liter of pastry cream. So, it's a pretty greasy pastry cream. So, what we're waiting for at the C.A.P., what is it? To have a box, already, for the eggs. Then, clarify, even if it breaks, in fact, we don't care. What we don't want, in fact, is for it to break in the whites. Otherwise, you throw the whites. Then, when you break a little more than seven, eight eggs, a little tip, take a second container, you break three, you put it in the terrine. That's to prevent in case there's a rotten egg. OK. Then, the shells, you'll put them immediately in the bin. In this pot, you'll go to the dishwasher. That, the whites, you ask, in fact, logically, you'll have a little container, a little pitcher to get the egg whites. And then, you're going to come on your worktop and you're going to come and disinfect your worktop. So, there, as soon as you've clarified, super important, your container, even if it's an egg container, every time you're going to break eggs or yolks, you're going to come and disinfect your worktop with a surface product. It's super important. Tell yourself that the jury members will watch on this kind of step, OK? But at least you have it, you go back, it's clean. At least for the next one, it'll be good. Now, I weigh the second part on the yolks, and not the opposite. It's not the sugar and then the yolks. It's first the yolks and the sugar. Why? Because we have a chemical reaction that's going to happen between the sugar and the yolks. It's that the yolks are going to burn. And so, to avoid that, you weigh, in fact, quickly, my 62 grams. And then, I take my whip and I'm going to come and whiten. So, I'm whitening. And as you can see, I'm going very far. It's a step that's going to make you waste time. No, not at all. Don't forget that in pastry, you have a tasting. And if you have a super good pastry cream, very rich in mouth, well, for me, it's a win. And then, I put the starch right away. So, the starch, I put cream powder. We could replace the cream powder with corn flour. Come on, 40 grams of cream powder. It's over. So, here we have what I'm going to do is dry them. A choux pastry, above all, what you should never, but never do, is anticipate the cooking. A choux pastry, I remind you that it's crispy, or even hard on the outside and quite soft on the inside. So, you have to dry it. If you don't dry your choux pastry, when you're going to fill it, it's going to be very soft. And when you're going to eat it, there won't be any mash, it won't be interesting. A choux pastry, but I prefer it to be overcooked, or too colored, rather than not enough. So, here, I'm going to let it dry for 5 minutes, quietly. So, here, I'm preparing a grid, a food film. Why a grid? Because afterwards, I'm going to put it in a cooling cell. Being able to cool it down, it goes even faster with a grid. Now, I come back right away on the choux pastry, which is good, because you shouldn't boil it for 3 hours. On the contrary, you have to boil it well. Once, I take my milk, I pour it, 2 thirds, in my pre-mix with my yolks. I mix well, I put my pan back on the gas right away. I haven't lowered the temperature. I stay really active until the end. I mix well, and I wait for my milk to boil again. It's super important. And I pour it all over the wall. Ok. There. And I whip once it's well mixed. So, that's super important. Be careful. At first, I go slowly. We have a coagulation that is coming. Ok. You see, I always turn my pan. Right? If ever, in fact, you see too much foam, it hurts, you lift your pan from the fire, whatever you want. Ok? It will help you. And this foam will go away. And now, we're going to cook. And now, you have to hear the movement of your wrist. A pastry cream, at the end of cooking, it must be extremely liquid. Liquid, silky, very shiny. How do we know that our pastry cream has reached 85°C? Quite simply, there are little clues. So, I'm going to show you. I'm going to lower my heat a little bit. A pastry cream, half a liter, 30 seconds. One liter, one minute. And you know that you are at 85°C. Then, the clues are the silky. It is very silky, in fact. Very silky, very shiny. We feel that we have a beautiful texture, in fact, of cream. Ok. That's the clue, in fact, number 2. So, there, I have 30 seconds. My pastry cream is cooked. Then, we flavor. So, here I have chocolate. So, this chocolate is 100% pure cocoa. So, crystallized, of course. For the C.A.P., they will give you a cocoa paste. Ok. Easier to mix. But I prefer that, it's better. And so, it's up to you to flavor it, there's no problem. It's up to you to choose your color, the flavoring you want to give to your pastry cream. Yeah, I like it when, on the other hand, it's well chocolatey. When you announce a chocolate lightning, there must be a lot of chocolate in the mouth. It is very homogeneous, it is pretty. I pour it directly. On the other hand, I take a clean horn, not the horn I took to to horn my yolks. We film at contact. Of course, that's obvious. We eliminate air bubbles. We flatten as much as possible. And I put that directly in a cooling cell. At minus 40 degrees, it will take between 5 and 10 minutes maximum. So, a lot of students are seen at the exit of the oven. I see it every year at the C.A.P. The lightnings will stay stuck on the plate. I barely butter. But when you barely butter like me, you have to take the lightnings off hot. That is, we take out the lightning. There, in fact, you have to take off. So why do you have to take off? For two things. Because, one, I ice my lightning with icing sugar. So it's a little layer of caramelization. And then, it hangs because I butter very, very little. But, on the other hand, you see, you have a seam that is perfect. At the C.A.P., what is super important is to know the lightnings that you are going to pass, ice or not. That is, I explain myself. During your subject, your order, in fact, that you will discover, if they ask you for 12 lightnings to do, you will not make 12, you will make 16. At least 4 more. Well, you will select the most beautiful to fill. Me, for example, you see, hop! I know that this one, I spread it out right away. Because it is less pretty. It's not ugly, but it's less pretty and attractive than the others. In fact, visually, what they will do is that. They will look at the top regularity and cooking and piping. And then, you will have a product that will be better finished. So, there are two choices that are up to you. Either you choose to ice on top or you choose to ice on the sole. Me, personally, I like the top, I like the galb. On the other hand, when we have too many cracks on the lightnings, so there it goes, you see, it's still quite regular, so I can ice on the top. But there are times when it bursts, for example, like this one, but we could choose to go underneath. Okay? I'm still going to choose to go on top. Then, to be able to pierce a lightning, I take a socket. Otherwise, there are small cones planned for this purpose. Me, I make three holes directly on top. And I make big holes. It's super important because at the CAP, where you have to waste time, once again, it's on top, rather than filling. Filling, me, if I make a big hole, it's going to take me a few seconds. And I'm going to take a big socket to fill my pastry cream. The pastry cream, I take it out of the cooling cell. It really has to be very cold. You see, I'm at 2-4 degrees. And so, there, I take the pastry cream on the film, I put it on the mixer. You have to get a film as clean as that. Okay? It's a sign that the pasteurization is successful. And there, you're sure you're going to have a sick texture. The whip, the mixer, and we're going to relax. I'm going to relax it, but relax it well. So, what does it consist of? It's going to consist of degraining. So, our pastry cream, which crystallized by going down. So there, we actually give it texture. And by texturing it, we're going to smooth it out. It's going to help us fill it. We have a texture of the pastry cream that is silky. I'm a member of the jury. I pass by. I see the brilliance that it has. I see the texture. I know I'm going to enjoy it. There, we have all the signs that are green. We are not used to poaching. Avoid loading the pockets. The more you load them, the harder it will be at the wrist level. And the more you're going to struggle and put them everywhere. To fill a pocket correctly, I have a pretty hoop. And we crown our horn. I have my finger here, which allows me to be clean. And when I close my pocket, you see, I'm clean. And that, you have to stay clean until the end of filling your splinters. You don't have to put it everywhere. It's super important. Then, to fill splinters. So, it's not super complicated. You see, already, I'm filled, but I already have a lot. And so, we're going to fill the holes, one by one. And every time I fill, you see, here, it comes out. And I don't go any further. At first, I don't touch the surplus. I leave it. Otherwise, you're going to get your hands dirty. In fact, as soon as it goes up here, it means it's well filled. And in fact, you see, my hands stay perfect until the end. If my pocket stays clean until the end, I'm going to save time because my hands won't slip on the pocket. I'm going to fill and it's going to be great. Here, I have 13 splinters to fill. The subject, in general, is 12. Out of a half liter, I have 100 of cream. What does that mean? It means that I have enough cream to fill my splinters. But it's especially that it means that my size of the splinter is in line with the requirement of the exam. Because we gave you a quarter of a liter of choux pastry and we asked you 12 splinters for a half liter of cream. And that's actually super important. The surplus, in fact, I take it out with my finger or you take a rope or a pallet. Properly. Do it properly. I'm part of the jury members who take the splinters and turn them over. I like the job well done. When we start the fondant, be careful because at first, people put it on the gas, they let it melt. You can also do it in the microwave. I advise you to do it even in a saucepan. What do you need for the fondant? You will need the fondant in the saucepan, the chocolate or cocoa paste to flavor the fondant and the syrup at 30. Syrup at 30. The recipe of the syrup, quickly, is 130 grams of sugar for 100 grams of water. When you see that it bubbles a little bit, you immediately take out your saucepan from the heat source. You must especially not that the fondant rises in temperature. At first, it's a little painful. You see, it hangs. But it's okay. We take the time. At CAP, this is where you have to take your time. Because if you exceed 45 degrees on your total mass of fondant, you will start to take risks at the icing level. It is completely relaxed, but it is not hot. I still flavor, there is no weight. It's up to you. The color. For me, it's 100% cocoa. Cocoa green. We are going to be very dark. From there, my fondant is melted. And now I'm going to spread it with syrup. So the syrup, it's the same, it's very random. And at some point, you will put a lot. And at some point, you will put a lot less. I'm going to reinforce a little bit more my color of chocolate. Because I'm a little bit just at the color level. Here. So what do we see that a fondant is good? So there, you see, I'm too hard. So temperature, I'm at 40. I'm both a little hot, but at the same time still hard. So at this stage, I continue with the syrup at 30. Above all, do not be tempted to put the fondant on the fire. If you take the time to put it to the point, that's where you're going to save time. This is quite significant. The fondant, you see, it must be folded when it falls. It must be, in fact, brilliant. Already here, it's not hot. And there, in fact, you have a good fondant. Either you glaze with your fingers, or you glaze with a spatula. Or the third technique, it's in the pocket. In the personal pocket, I'm not sure it's super appreciated by jury members. So personally, I wouldn't do it in the pocket because I find it too easy. We put a piece of pocket. We like to have the gesture of fact. But it's still a technique. There are some centers who tolerate it, others a little less. I still like to know how to glaze. So there, when we glaze, we take mass on the spatula. OK. We take the light behind and we drag along. OK. Quite simply. If you have time, in a timing, OK, you are perfectionist, you can put your finger back to have something perfect. OK. Otherwise, you do like me, you put it down. Here, it's about soaking the light. In fact, inside. Many students prefer this one. OK. It's easier. And there, I soak, I go out, I tighten my finger, and there, I'm going to come here, around. And it's something ultra-sharp. OK. And I find it quite nice. Personally, I prefer. Once again, what counts at CAP is the regularity of your lights and your fondant. We don't ask you to make lights of world champions. So there, I put it anyway at CAP. We have too often pots that are, excuse me for the term, disgusting. After, take the time to grind well. For me, it's hyper-significant when I see someone doing his job nickel-chrome. If ever, in fact, you have a global pot, well, it's still good to make your work clean nickel for the next one. When we see that, let's move on to the tasting. We have the little crunch that is also important at the cut. OK. And when we cut a light during the tasting at CAP, we do that, we cut it in half. And what is super important, in fact, is the garnish. And it's especially that there, in fact, we see all the steps. The fondant, not thick, a good garnish, and it's especially a good cooking of the choux pastry. At this stage, in fact, we can note a lot of things. In fact, just on the visual, we will know quite quickly if we are good, if we are not good, if everything coincides, in fact. And taste-wise, we will appreciate. It's the taste. Interpretation, and then we taste. I'm not greedy, I never eat eclairs. Really? It's just for the video, I don't have a choice. It's good. For an eclair at CAP, without modification, without the recipe, without the cream, we have a good mâche, we have a good eclair, which is crispy, but at the same time soft on the inside, and it's especially that we don't have too much fondant on it. We don't tear on the sugar, on the product, and it stays good. We go back to it anyway. Frankly, nothing to say. I hope you enjoyed the video. Good luck to those who pass the exam. Find the info, the recipe and the link of Cyril who kindly accepted to welcome us in his little school. We're here to learn our trade. We just make eclairs and cakes. We make simple things, but good. Thank you very much. Ciao ciao! See you soon!