Tasting History 被遺忘的埃及女王之死——沙加爾·杜爾和阿里媽媽（Om Ali）

今天我要做的是埃及的國家甜點 一款叫做阿瑪麗的麵包餅 一款有著有趣的歷史故事 妒忌、謀殺和埃及唯一的女皇帝的崛起和倒塌 所以謝謝Squarespace贊助這個視頻 讓我來做阿瑪麗 這次我們來品嚐歷史 所以這道菜阿瑪麗 據說在13世紀就獲得了它的名字 但是麵包餅就像現代的那樣 在埃及和地區的烹飪書中 至少要回到10世紀 例如在 Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq的《烹飪書》中 它說 把玉米粉或白麵包 泡在牛奶中直到變成濃稠 然後拿半公斤的糖 或大量的麵包 打碎和混合 然後拿一個乾淨的鍋 加入泡好的麵包、牛奶和糖 返回鍋中 慢慢燒焦 當麵包煮好了 把鍋從火中取出 將它轉成一個廣闊的碗 然後拌勻 歷史時代的其他版本 也包括了一些 你會在現代的版本中找到的味道 例如杏仁、橄欖、香草 甚至是玫瑰水 但是還有一些材料 你今天不會在這道菜中找到 例如薏仁和雞 我現在要清洗雞 但是我會使用一些 我在歷史的食譜中 我還會使用 當時使用的麵包 今天很常用 香草,我肯定它很好吃 但是當時他們使用的 是一個不澱粉的麵包 你只需要攪拌 半茶匙的鹽 加入一公斤或450克的麵粉 然後加入200毫升 或少於三分之一杯水 然後攪拌成麵團 當麵團凝固後 在桌上揉一揉 大約15分鐘 或直到它開始變得光滑 然後包起來 然後放置一小時 讓麵團放鬆 這也會給你足夠的時間放鬆 因為揉麵團 這真的會讓你放鬆 當你和麵團都放鬆了 將麵團分成八塊 然後將它們形成一個球 然後開始揉 揉到它變得 你能做到的薄薄 然後將麵團放入烤箱 在475°F 245°C 烘烤5分鐘 你可以烘烤2分鐘 然後就完成了 但它會很柔軟 你可以用它來包餡料 但我們想要脆脆的麵團 所以你要等到它脹起來 開始有顏色 然後把它拿出來 如果它很脆 你就知道它做好了 這個麵團今天還在埃及製造 雖然我感覺它通常是用 他們的麵團 但它是用同樣的方式 例如薄麵團或薄餅 如果你不想做 你其實可以用 薄麵團或薄餅 它會變得很相似 尤其是因為 你做完所有的工作 你就會把它捲成 一個烘烤盤 就像我說的 現代版本只用 意大利麵團 所以你可以 把意大利麵團乾燥 然後把它們分開 這也可以 但如果你在做 那就跳過下一個部分 因為意大利麵團 裡面有很多奶油 大部分歷史上的食譜 是說 把牛肋骨或奶油 放在麵團上 我選擇了奶油 我用了一半杯 或者120毫升 加上融化的奶油 你可以配上 不同種類的果仁 或乾果 很多舊食譜 有各種不同的配方 我用了三分之一杯 橄欖 三分之一杯 香草 和一杯 意大利麵團 意大利麵團其實是 比較適合女主婦 或者是 結婚的女主婦 所以 這道菜挺適合的 同時 果仁最好 是你 在乾鍋裡 然後把它們分開 然後把它們 擠在上面 然後再加上 那層 意大利麵團 現在說到 你使用的牛奶 大部分的 現代食譜 使用濃縮牛奶 但是他們沒有 濃縮牛奶 在13世紀的埃及 所以我看了 一些 舊食譜 他們會使用 像是酸牛奶 有些使用乳酪 然後有些 只使用 基本的 牛奶和奶霜 所以我使用 一湯匙 或一公升的 全牛奶 加上兩杯奶霜 來濃縮它 接著 倒入三分之一杯 或150克的糖 然後 把鍋子 放在火上 讓它熱起來 當它開始沸騰 取出它 從熱中 讓它冷卻 大約五分鐘 這就是 你可以加入 所有你想要的 一些舊食譜 使用 麥芽 或 玉米 或 乳酪 很多很多 不同的東西 我選擇了 三分之一茶匙 糖 三分之一茶匙 玉米 和一茶匙 玫瑰水 倒入熱牛奶 然後 輕輕地 倒入 麵包和 蛋 確保 所有的 麵包 均勻地 吸收 你可以將一些 蛋和 酥皮 放在 然後 放入 油 讓它 煮 約 25分鐘 或者 直到 上面 變得 金黃色 牛奶 開始泡沫 所以 我沒有聽過 這個菜 直到 一個月前 一位觀眾 電郵我 告訴我 一些 這道菜 同樣的 日子 I went to go see a show and in intermission, somebody came up to me and was like, Hey, you should make omelette. And then he proceeded to tell me the story about this dish. It's just kind of weird how that happens. Never heard of it twice in one day. Anyway, the story was filled with intrigue and deceit and murder and was amazing and just the kind of thing I like to talk about here on Tasting History. So now I am going to tell you the story of omelette. The year is 1239 and a young girl named Shajar al-Dur has found herself enslaved. And just like so many enslaved people at the time, at least women, she was to be sold as a concubine. And the man who bought her was the prince of Egypt, Al-Salih Ayyub. But what happens next? Prince buys concubine. Prince becomes sultan. Sultan falls in love with concubine. Sultan frees concubine. Sultan and concubine get married. It's a tale as old as time. Well, while this twisted little love story is playing out in Egypt, further to the north in France, King Louis IX is fuming. He has just learned that the crusader kingdom of Jerusalem has been captured and is now in the hands of that same concubine marrying sultan. So he decides to start a crusade because, you know, it's the Middle Ages and that's what you do. This is going to be the Seventh Crusade. And just like so many movie franchises, once the seventh one comes along, people start to lose interest. They're getting distracted by things like Holy Wars in Italy and the new Mongol franchise which is coming in and invading Hungary. So people just weren't really into going on crusade at the time. So Louis decides, fine, I'll do it by myself. So he gathers his almost entirely French army and heads not to Jerusalem but straight for Egypt. Well, that is a surprise, especially to the Egyptian sultan who happens to be in Syria at the moment fighting someone else. So he hears that Egypt is being invaded and so he heads back, he gathers all of his generals, say, hey, we need to get an army, we're going to set up camp here at Mansura and then he dies. He just, he just dies. He had an abscess on his leg, they amputated and a few days later at night, he's dead. And the only person who was with him when it happened was his wife, Shajar al-Dur. The woman had to think on her feet. Now the sultan did have a son from a previous relationship, a man named Turan Shah, but unfortunately they did not get along well together, the sultan and his son, and so he had never officially made him his heir. Plus he had sent him to live way, way far away in what is now modern day Turkey. So even if he had been the heir, he wasn't around to help. And by now the French army had taken control of many of the port cities on the Nile Delta and was moving into Egypt. And if people find out that the sultan is dead, it's going to be absolute chaos. The generals are going to start fighting for power and the government is going to collapse. So what is Shajar to do? Well, have you seen Weekend at Bernie's? Because basically that was her plan. She just pretended like he hadn't died. She told a few people who she really trusted what was going on, but most people were none the wiser. And she maybe forged his signature on a stack of documents. So whenever he was going to give an order, she would write it down and hand it off to a general or whoever. So she was kind of in charge. Now one of the things that she did do was send somebody to go get that estranged son and bring him back, which he finally did. But as he was coming back, people started to figure out that something was afoot. Maybe the sultan was, you know, dead or something. And so Shajar finally comes out and is like, yeah, he died last night. It just happened. He hasn't been dead for weeks. It just happened. Not long after this, Turan Shah, the son, finally arrives in Egypt and he, according to the sources, gathers an army of 3,000 farmers and fights the crusader army of 15,000 strong and defeats them, capturing the entire force, including King Louis himself. End of Seventh Crusade. Roll credits. Everything's great now. Egypt is happy. They got their new sultan. Except that it turns out the new sultan is a belligerent psychopath who is bent on killing all the people that his father brought into power. Now this is, of course, coming from later sources who didn't like him. So who knows exactly what the truth is? But it does seem that he wanted to get rid of the group of people called the Mamluks. These were people who had started out as enslaved mercenaries but had come to kind of run the place. He wanted to get rid of them and put all of his friends in power. His big mistake, though, seems to be that he also wanted to get rid of Shajar. But Shajar was like, uh-uh, I don't think so. I did not come all this way just to have it ruined by some snot-nosed little brat, even if he is my stepson. So she plotted with the generals to kill him, which they did. They hacked Turan Shah to death in the Nile River. Also I love how medieval art makes everyone dress as if they are in Europe. Like this is Turan Shah of Egypt who is basically just a tan version of the French King Louis. Anyway, with Turan Shah out of the way, the Mamluks decide that they are going to make Shajar al-Dur sultan in her own right. Now this is kind of a big deal. This is 13th century Egypt and they have just made a woman in charge of absolutely everything. Kind of a big deal and I feel like more people should know about this, especially because she did a really good job. Within days of taking the throne, she negotiated the ransom of King Louis and the French army for an enormous sum of money and got them to retreat from the port cities that they'd taken in the Nile Delta. Well, everybody should be happy, right? Not exactly, because there is a group in Syria called the Ayyubids who were kind of in charge of Egypt for the last hundred years. Her husband was one of them and so they're like, Wait, you put her on the throne? That's not cool. And so they start revolting. But even worse, the caliph of Baghdad who was the de facto religious leader of the caliphate says, No, I don't think a woman should be in charge. So even though it was absolutely not fair, Shajar decides, Fine, I will marry one of my top generals, a man named Az-ul-Din Ayyubid. Well, Ayyubid already has a son and a wife and Shajar says, Okay, that's fine as long as they stay away, which they did for a while. We'll get back to them. But at first things go all right. Ayyubid is basically in charge of the militaries and Shajar is in charge of running everything else in Egypt. Hunky-dory until finally Ayyubid is like, You know what? I should be in charge of everything. And so they had some spats and things started to fall apart. In addition, some military issues have arisen up in Syria, most of which Ayyubid actually caused. But Ayyubid needed some help dealing with it. So he needed an ally in the region and that ally would be the emir of Mosul. And to cement this relationship, Ayyubid says, Okay, I'll marry your daughter even though he's already married to Shajar. But whatever. Except that when Shajar finds this out, she's like, Uh-uh, I don't think so. I did not come all this way to have some hussy from Mosul come in and take my power. So she decides, How about I deal with this in the same way that I dealt with the last sultan who made me mad? So one night while Ayyubid is taking a bath, she has her servants go in and stab him to death. And the next morning she goes out and tells everyone, Oh no, my husband of seven years who was in perfect health died last night. But they weren't buying it this time. Well those who were loyal to the sultan Ayyubid decide to torture the servants into confessing the murder and so they arrest Shajar and lock her up in a tower. And at this same time Ayyubid's former wife, the first wife and son who had been kind of cast off came back. The son who was 15 now was named Al-Mansur Ali and he became the new sultan. And his mother who was still kind of peeved that she had been cast off in the first place decided that Shajar was maybe too dangerous to keep around. So she had her servants go up into the tower one night, beat her to death with their shoes, and then throw her off the tower. And that was the end of the one and only female sultan in Egyptian history. Really, really quite sad. Especially because she was pretty awesome. But after this heinous act the mother of Ali, the new sultan decided that they would celebrate with a dessert. And the dessert was a bread pudding and so everyone called it Ali's mother because that's who was having it made for the celebration. Ali's mother in Arabic is Omali. So that is where the name of this dish supposedly comes from. And now it's time for me to try my own Omali. So once the milk is boiling and the top is browned take the Omali out of the oven and serve. And here we are. Omali, the national dessert of Egypt. It smells so good. Today this is usually served with like a really thick cream that's almost like whipped cream on top but I'm not doing that. So I'm just eating alone, trying to get everything try it on. Here we go. The flavors are so good. There is- it's sweet but not overly sweet. You get a lot of sweetness from like the sultanas and everything. Flavor is great. The texture is odd because that bread is basically just flour and water. They're almost like noodles. It's kind of like a noodle dessert, which is a thing. But I think that if you use the modern day croissants, it's going to have a much better texture. This isn't bad. It's just different and I think that just croissants would be better. But the flavors- the flavors are great. So especially if you are not making the bread yourself, it's actually a really easy dish to make. It doesn't take that much work. And I will put the recipe for this as always on the Tasting History website, tastinghistory.com, which I have made with some help from today's sponsor, Squarespace. Squarespace makes building a website so easy with their dynamic tools like their drag-and-drop technology for both desktop and mobile. And they have lots of different templates, which is great if you don't know a lot about building a website like I didn't, because you have something to start off with. So you can take the template and then you can change it however you want, but it's better than just looking at a blank page. They also have lots of cool tools like email campaigns that help you send out emails to keep customers or viewers in my case with my newsletter keep them up to date on things. So if you are looking to start a new website, then go to Squarespace.com for a free trial and when you're ready to launch, go to Squarespace.com slash Tasting History for 10% off of your first purchase of a website or domain. And I will see you next time on Tasting History.