酒聞 《酒聞》第十六杯上｜波爾多列級莊Petrus柏萃斯的藍色風土與傳承

哈嘍 大家好 我是呂洋 歡迎又一次來到我們的節目 我們來到了 再一次來到了外灘 這段時間很多波爾多的莊主和釀酒師都來到了上海 我們上集有拉斐的女莊主薩斯克婭 還有瑪格的釀酒師 那這些都是左岸的名莊 那我們來想想右岸有哪些酒莊特別的知名 特別的受人關注呢 那其中之一肯定就是Petruz酒莊 那今天很有幸請到了一位老朋友Olivier 他是Petruz的釀酒師 但他更重要是他的父親Pierre從60年代的時候 就一直當Petruz釀酒師 釀了很多經典而偉大的年份 而他在09年的時候接過他父親的班成了Petruz釀酒師 父子兩人連在一起釀的Petruz已經馬上就到60個年份了 我想世界上可能沒有人比他更懂Petruz 那今天我們來聊聊他的故事 聊聊Petruz的故事 Hello Olivier Hello Yan Welcome to Shanghai Thank you very much Thanks for coming to our show Thank you for inviting me So the restaurant is called Me to the Bound It's the best rated Fujianese cuisine in China Very innovative But very focused on the heritage and the tradition Your father has been with Petruz since 1964 Exactly And he was recruited by Mr. Jean-Pierre Moix The grandfather of Jean Who is at the head of Petruz nowadays And he has been working for almost 44 vintage At Petruz with me So it's a little experience for him And I was very lucky when the family asked me to join them in 2008 And making my first official vintage in 2009 So being very lucky Your first vintage Yeah It was a great vintage as well Yes, it's a beginner's luck You know, 2001 was a blessed vintage I mean, weather condition were perfect Yeah And so it was We can say that Perfect beginning Can you tell us what's the meaning of Petruz That Petruz is linked to Pierre Peter St. Peter Exactly The heaven keeper, gatekeeper That explains why he is holding keys in his hand OK Madame Louba, she was a previous owner of Petruz And she was very religious She asked this artist to put the face of St. Peter on the label So in your own words, as a wine lover Can you tell me why Petruz is so special It's a unique spot in Bordeaux For a few reasons First, where Petruz is situated in Pomerol It's the highest point of the Appellation And it's also the only clay spot of the Appellation Pure clay spot And usually in Bordeaux, you have a blind But in Petruz, it's pure Merlot Almost And so that wedding That combination between clay and Merlot Is quite unique Because when you are facing a vintage You cannot play with other elements It's kind of a Burgundy way of working OK If you can understand One terroir and one grape variety Yes Obviously, your father has been working at Petruz For 40 something years So many great wines of Petruz have been made by him Any pressure to step into his shoes My dad, at first, he was very happy that I succeeded him It was a We can say that it's a real joy for him to continue to Because we continue to work together So it's a very smooth transmission We have the same vision of what we think about Petruz So it makes things easier And that can create that very continuity Yes Between the two generations And we just mentioned about the blue clay Why is it so special? What kind of influence and effect Does it have on the wines? It's blue because the clay of Petruz Are very rich in reduced iron You have a depth of clay On maybe 15 meters 15 meters? Wow It's quite deep And it's very good Especially when you go Deeper And in terms of Vine viticulture And the taste of the Petruz What does this blue clay give to the wine? Naturally, the Merlot doesn't have the structure Doesn't have the Dynamic concentration You might find in other grape varieties And so when it's going on clay The clay will provide that structure It provides that density It will provide that quantity That concentration of tannin Naturally to the grapes of Merlot But in Petruz The Merlot can work by itself Thanks to the clay we have in the soil Petruz being such an iconic name for 100 years How do you balance the tradition And the heritage of Petruz With this kind of singular ideology With the modern technology And the modern innovation I think what has really improved In the past few years It's the knowledge About the vineyard and about the wine But making wine We have honestly two big decisions to make First is the picking date And it's very important Because when you pick You fix the quality potential of your vintage And as a winemaker We can just express that potential Don't create it So choosing the picking date First decision And then the extraction process What do we extract out of our berries Because the wine It's not all the grapes It's just a part of it The best wine we want to extract out of it So our job is to express that potential That's very... The two big decisions We have to make during the vinification