River dynamics: The formation of surfable waves through sand berm breaches

We're doing a little board trade, huh? Yeah! Is that my new board right there? Yeah. Nice. Alright, Deal, I'll give you yours back right now. Dad does it. Really? He's never skimmed the river way. Stop in the red and just, like, chill? Man. That's big dogs, dude. The river way is where it's at. If the water's a little quick, it doesn't matter. It's good to go. This one's even smaller than that one, huh? Tiny bit. That's pretty small. Wow. This is gonna be interesting. It's thicker, though, so you can float a little better. This thing feels like a whopper to me. It's so small. Okay. I didn't learn how to do that until I was, like, 22. He's got it on lock. Are you putting this on skid kits or what? Dude, this could be, like, one of the sickest rivers. Yeah. What do you think, James? I think it could be really good. This is the fullest I've seen it in, like, weeks, probably. I'm gonna go leash. Wearing a leash is not the call on the river. Why leash? Like, why would you wear a leash on the river? You'd lose your board, I would say. I'll wear a leash. You're gonna wear a leash right now? Yeah, for sure. But that's why you're gonna lose two boards and I'm not. That's no fun. You lose two, I win. He's gonna be looking for his board while I'm scoring the best way of my life. Guys, we're getting the shot. You're getting the shot. I'm not getting the shot. So, we've been waiting all day for the river to break. And we waited until sunset and it just started to get going right at sunset. So here we are. We're in the dark. Called some friends with lights. We're gonna make it happen. Jamie's here. It's gonna get weird. Hopefully, people stay safe. And not too many boards are lost. But I have a feeling I'm gonna lose a board at least. At least one. Jamie's wearing a leash. It's like a kook, so. He can't do shove-its, so he doesn't have to wear a leash. Or he can wear a leash. But if you're trying to get weird, trying to do shove-its, you can't do a leash. You can't do a leash. Do you even have a leash? No, I don't even have a leash. Leashes aren't for me, man. They're not for me. But this river wave, this is gonna be a good one. I'm pretty scared I'm gonna lose this thing. So if I just lose it, can you follow me with the light down there? I'll try. Okay. Have you seen the Blair Witch Project? You know that movie? Yeah, yeah. Do I look like that right now? We all look like that right now. Oh, okay. Perfect. Alright, it's on. Almost lost it. Oh, look at that thing. Whoa. Sketchy. Where does Santa do this? What? Where does Santa do this? Alright, I'm taking this away. No, how does he f***ing do it? Streamer! Streamer. Bro, it's the longest river I've ever seen. Such a bump. Five minutes. Dude, I'm so good at this. You're on it. Getting the shots for Blair. Oh yeah, Blair. Oh, Blair. What the hell? What? Dude, there's so many flashes right out there. Thanks for filming. Ethan, right? Yeah, Ethan. Appreciate it. How was it? Oh, it was not as big. Hey, later buddy. I can't see anything right now. Wasn't as phenomenal of a creek break as I was expecting, but still some rippable ones and it was a good first test run. I think we're going to have to get more lights on it next time. Andre, you were right about the lights. You were very right. But to be honest, I think this is the longest river break that I've seen. Yeah, but not the most rippable one. No, yeah. The waves were kind of small. I would even say that this one lasted twice as long as that one that got the good waves, for example. Yeah, I would agree. But I think the reason the good waves happened was because the water is moving so much faster. It just flushes faster, but makes better waves. And the slope was more gradual today. But that's okay. We're going to try it again. We're going to get another night session. Yeah, yeah. It was kind of fun, right? It was really fun. Yeah. Was this your first? Dude, this is like my second or third. How did you like it? Dude, it was pretty sick. I don't know. The first couple of times were a little sketchy. This time I was able to just ride it for a bit and it was so fun. Yeah. Anytime the river breaks, it's bound to be something interesting. It was cool. Nice to see you. Nice. Oh, there we go. Now it's focused. Oh, that one's sick. Yeah, I got a bunch. The photos turned out epic. Oh, that one is sick. The tripod was a move. Yeah, for sure. The tripod is a must. And I just leave it in my car like perfect.